Over a decade ago, when my partner and I coincidentally landed up in Goa during the monsoon, we had no idea we’d be in for such a treat. I have vivid memories of those weeks spent driving around the interiors on our bike, huddling under old banyan trees with fellow riders during a heavy downpour, spotting peacocks dancing in the lush greenery, cycling on idyllic islands, chatting with farmers in their paddy fields, and celebrating Sao Joao – the well-jumping festival!

A lot has changed in Goa since that monsoon many years ago. It’s no longer an off-season time to visit Goa. Most cafes and restaurants no longer remain shut during the rains. The roads are no longer deserted. The paddy fields, huggable old trees and Portuguese-era houses are quickly being replaced by traffic and ugly buildings.

But in little pockets – on the backwaters, the river, the ghats – the magic of Goa in the monsoon can still be a treat for any nature lover. Personally, I love sleeping to the show of lightening, thunder, and the sweet feeling of lashing tropical rain.

Why visit Goa during the monsoon

• Experience Goa with a different lens: Unlike other seasons, the monsoon is not the time to visit Goa’s beaches. The sea is too rough to swim, and the sun and sand are both soaking wet. That means you go inland to experience everything else that Goa has to offer – the culture, farming life, backwaters and seasonal waterfalls of the hinterlands. Absolutely stunning!

• Less crowded than the winter: Even though monsoon is no longer off-season in Goa, it still draws fewer crowds than say, the winter months from October to February. That means relatively less movement on the streets, and more of Goa’s beauty to yourself!

• A more affordable season to visit: Even though monsoon has become busier over the years, many accommodations tend to offer monsoon rates that are far more affordable than peak season rates. Bike rentals are cheaper too.

• Best time for slow travel: I’ve spent so many monsoons slowing down in Goa, and I can’t recommend it enough. With lesser crowds, it’s also easier to find a longish term rental.

• Seasonal waterfalls! Did I mention the waterfalls already? Oh their glorious monsoon beauty.
  The weather patterns are all haywire now, but typically the pre-monsoon rains arrive in Goa by early-mid June. However, until the monsoon actually starts towards the end of June, the weather tends to be hot, humid and sticky.
• Once the monsoon is in full swing, you can expect cloudy skies, breezy days, and sometimes even chilly nights. From end June to end August, the rains are in full swing. Keep a raincoat and umbrella with you always to deal with the heavy rain. The rains slow down by early September, but continue intermittently until end September. The weather remains cool and breezy too.
• My favorite time to be in Goa is usually end August for a few weeks, when the rains aren’t as intense, and the landscape feels lush and refreshed.